Pixie Rock is a super popular formation that belongs to the larger Indian Cove climbing area in Joshua Tree National Park. The crags in this zone tend to feature rock that’s a bit crumby, though the variety and quality of routes rival those in Hidden Valley.
True to its name, it’s quite a bit shorter than many of the other zones in the park, though climbers from far and wide flock to Pixie Rock to get their hands on one of the ultra J-Tree classics: Silent Scream. This 10b climbs up the right side of the formation and boasts a dicey yet thought-provoking move just below the top out. There’s nearly always a line to get on it, but ask almost anyone and they’ll tell you it’s worth the wait.
This is one of the most utilized areas in the park for kids and beginner classes thanks to its slabby belly and excellent top rope capabilities. It shouldn’t deter you from visiting, though; many proudly boast that their climbing careers were born at Pixie Rock. As an added bonus, the approach from the road takes approximately 15 seconds.
There’s a short wooden fence surrounding the outcropping to help reduce environmental impact. Be sure to stay on trail and to practice the principles of Leave No Trace. The park service has erected a sign to help climbers identify routes, though climbers have reported that it bears some misinformation. It’s suggested that you bring along your own guidebook. As far as camping goes, it’s situated near Indian Cove Campground. Though there’s a $15 charge to stay here, the park service doesn’t charge an entrance fee.
Note: Power drilling for bolt placement is strictly prohibited without a permit. Bolts must be 3/8" or 1/2" stainless steel. All hangers and anchors must be colored to match rock.
Trad/Top Rope Routes
- Who’s First, 5.6 | Trad
- Scream Chuck, 5.7 | Trad (run out)
- Rhythm of the Heat 5.8 | Trad
- Pixie Stick, 10a | Top Rope
- Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey), 5.10a | Trad
- Silent but Deadly, 5.11a | Trad
- Lascicious Conduct, 5.11c | Trad
Boulder Problems
- Pixie Dust V1 | 10 feet
- Monkey Gone to Heaven, V3 | 20 feet
- Snappa, V3 | 10 feet
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