Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble

As the hardest route in the ever popular Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia, Joffre Peak is one of the coast's most enjoyable scrambles. With decent rock and some tricky routefinding, it's an excellent alpine day out. As of June 2019, this route is no longer safe to access. Until further notice, the Cerise Creek area is closed. Two large landslides have wiped out large sections of trail. There is also risk of further slides. This has dramatically altered the approach route along both summer and winter trails. It also poses a continued risk. BC Parks has closed the area. For updates visit the Nlhaxen Conservancy.

From the trailhead on the Duffey Lake Road you follow the well-marked summer trail up the Cerise Creek. The trail heads south after the bridge and heads up onto the lower flanks of Joffree and onto a logging road. Eventually the road forks, and the main trail follows the right fork uphill. The logging road ends, diving back into the woods on heavily rooted but well-maintained trail. The trail takes a little time to ascend and gets particularily steep through a talus field shortly before meeting Keith's Hut. From here you can spend the night or continue up the ridge to the looker's right of the hut. The trail begins in the southwest corner of the meadow. Up the ridge it gains to a large lump called Motel 66. This popular camping spot has beautiful views, but be sure to bring wag bags as there are no toilet facilities. Increasing human traffic in this area is stressing this environment and creating bear attractants. 

The route begins here and crosses down over talus fields trending toward a big snow field. Many parties choose to do this route early in the day to avoid late rockfall and take advantage of stiffer snow conditions that make travel easier. Above this snow field there is a big shelf right on the edge of the glacier that affords good views of the valley and the route. A ridge ramps up to a steep face that can be traversed and ascended to a slope beneath a big snowfield that remains well into the late season. From here you edge up against the snowfield to a wide ramp that isn't really visible until you are beside it. The ramp ends abruptly at the ridge, and there is some scrambling up an arete followed by one exposed traverse move that puts you onto wide open talus fields. This wraps around the false peak into a silt-filled gulley. Awkward and loose steps make for the least pleasant terrain of the day, but you're there on the summit. 

The descent offers few suprises and goes quickly, though it can really pound the knees. Moving quickly is advisable because some areas are prone to rockfall. 

Equipment

You can bring ropes on this scramble because there is one good spot to rappel the crux. A 50-meter rope would be required and is probably not worth the effort unless some members of the party are particularly uncertain on their feet in the mountains. Helmets are essential and decent hiking boots are recommended. In the early season, ice axes and crampons would be nice to have. Aside from that it's the usual equipment one would expect for a scramble in the alpine. Ten essentials and extra food are advisable as conditions do change rapidly.

For a detailed technical description of this route, refer to Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia by Matt Gunn.