Although Mount St Helens erupted in 1980, the impressive aftermath is still ever present. The Mount Margaret backcountry provides an ominous and humbling glimpse into the power of mother nature. Rugged ridges display completely leveled old-growth forests and erosion. Plant life has made a considerable comeback over the years, however, and a wide variety of wildflowers and vegetation cover the volcanic terrain.
This particular trip focuses on an out-and-back section of Lakes Trail #211 and passes by four pristine lakes, three of which include designated campsites. Beginning at the Norway Pass Trailhead, the dusty ash trail immediately begins climbing Boundary Trail #1 up to Norway Pass, which provides a breathtaking view of Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake. From here, you’ll head right onto Lakes Trail #211, climbing even higher up to 4,950-foot Bear Pass for unimpeded views of Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, Mount Hood, and Mount St. Helens. Those who would like to make a loop out of this hike can jump onto the Whittier Ridge Trail as well; clockwise travel starting toward Mount Margaret and ending with the Lakes Trail is recommended so that there is more uphill travel in exposed sections. Note that distance, elevation gain, and intense exposure combine to make the Whittier Ridge Trail a serious undertaking that should be thoroughly researched before being integrated into a loop.
You’ll finally begin your decent to a series of log-filled sapphire lakes, the first of which is Grizzly Lake. From Grizzly Lake the trail takes you to Obscurity Lake, Panhandle Lake, and finally Shovel Lake. If vacancies are available, one could plan a multi-day trip that spends a night at each lake. Camping at Shovel Lake involves an additional 0.5-mile descent to the shoreline, yet the scenery is very much worth the extra effort. If you are feeling adventurous, you can avoid an out-and-back by scrambling up to the rugged Mount Whittier ridge to return to Bear Pass. Note that this portion is highly exposed, with sheer cliffs and rudimentary trails.
There are a total of eight reservable backcountry campsites throughout this area, each of which requires a permit and is limited to four campers (Ridge Camp allows eight). Pets and livestock are prohibited in this area to help protect the natural habitat. As a result, wildlife is abundant, and it’s very likely you'll see elk, deer, mountain goats, coyotes, black bear, rabbits, and plenty of eastern brook trout. Wildflowers and berries skirt the trail for much of the late spring and summer. Each clearly defined campsite is outfitted with a level tent pad, grey water sump, and a compostable toilet. Note that water is not present until later in the hike, so it’s highly advised that you carry plenty with you.
Comments
Hiked 6/25/16 and 6/26/16. We went up from the Norway Pass Trailhead towards Mount Margaret, opting to stay on the Mount Margaret trial for day one. To complete this loop hike, you think link with the Whittier pass trail at about 5 miles, which in 2 miles connects you with the lakes trail. The Lakes trail then connects back in with where you were the day before on Bear Mountain for the final 3 miles or so returning to the car. We never got to hike any part of the lakes trail, so this report excludes that.
The views were spectacular, with all of the southern WA and northern OR volcanoes on full display. We didn't see any large wildlife, but saw plenty of signs of them, and people with binoculars saw goats and elk; we'll add that to our kit for next time. There is still snow on the trail, small spots before the Whittier pass cutoff, significant spots on the way up to Mount Margaret, but passable with good hiking boots. Poles would probably be helpful if you're uncomfortable crossing snow fields.
From what we could see, the Whittier ridge scramble to connect to the lakes trail was still more or less impassible due to snow and the steep angle. There were some footprints on it, so some people may have tried it, but with our overnight packs, it was a no go. We backtracked and camped at Bear Camp instead of Shovel lake. In talking with a ranger afterwards, this sounds like a pretty common occurrence once people realize what the Whittier ridge section entails.
All in all, a great hike, but I think OP should put some more information up on that very technical portion of the trail.
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